Yesterday I read a book, watched back-to-back the latest episode of The Simpsons, Hung and Boardwalk Empire. Then I started drinking too early, played in the weekly Blissful Guesthouse poker tournament (lost $5...) and felt restless all day. Kampot is a quiet place. I came here to get away from my troubles and woes. It's not working. I'm doing it all wrong.
This morning I woke up and saw the blue, blue sky. Maybe it's time for a different approach. Downloaded Google Terrain maps on GPS Kit (on my iPhone), rented a motorbike and drove all the way to the sea.
Destination: Kep.
This tiny coastal village is only 30 kilometers away from Kampot. Nevertheless, being all alone out in the countryside made me uncomfortable a first. One white dude in the middle of nowhere. Weak and vulnerable. My rented motorbike didn't have a rear break so that didn't make the ride any easier.
But after half an hour or so, I relaxed. The weather was great, the road in reasonable condition and with GPS Kit I could check my position anytime. Intrepid adventure! Just the road and I. Nothing else on my mind. No feelings of insecurity, loneliness or fear. Free and alive, at last!
Kep was nice and quiet (of course, I've been here before but never mind that.) Once a colonial retreat for the French, later a hang out for Cambodian high rollers. Severely destroyed and looted by the Khmer Rouge in the war. Burned out ruins of luxurious prewar villas are still spread around the hills. They are slowly taken over by lush jungle vegetation. Just like Kampot, it's a desolate place. Big statues and roundabouts but hardly a soul around. There's a small crab market, a few guesthouses and resorts, not much else. I took my time cruising up and down the coastal road, drank fresh sugar cane juice and walked down Kep beach. I like lonely places, they make me feel at ease. I lingered on for while. Stared at the sea and tried not to think about anything else. Good times. Simple and free and alone.
When threatening thunderclouds came rolling in, it was time to leave. It's still rainy season. Driving down the open road in the middle of a tropical downpour is a something to avoid. Full speed ahead back to Kampot, trying to out run the dark clouds. When I turned off National Route 33 into town the rain came down. Made it just in time.
It was a great ride. I haven't felt this good in years.
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